Rizal Province, the Philippines
December 30, 2008
We let the road lead us. That was our guiding principle of a good road trip.

One lazy December day, Ki (my fellow “road-tripper”) and I did just that. For Manila urbanites, an out-of-the-blue road trip was mostly a toss between going north or going south. Going east was hardly even regarded as an option. (Going west would mean embarking on a boat trip.) But on this day, we headed eastward with no particular destination, no compelling reason other than to follow the road.
We drove the stretch of Marcos Highway, past dense suburbs and malls, wondering where the dead-end was. There was none; it just gradually lost lanes as it traversed the sparsely populated beyond. The eight-lane city highway in Metro Manila eventually shrunk into a two-lane country road. It was in this winding highway that we found ourselves alone for long stretches, meeting only an occasional jeepney or motorcycle.

Ki was anxious we might run out of gas in the middle of nowhere, as there seemed to be neither town nor gas station in sight. There was a small variety store (sari-sari store in the vernacular) that sold gas in one-liter Pepsi bottles. Ki bought one, just in case. After all, we didn’t know how much longer we needed to drive to see a town.
Zigzagging the highway on the slopes of the Sierra Madre mountain range offered spectacular views at every turn: forests, foothills, limestone cliffs, and the placid blue of Laguna de Bay beyond. The forest was densely verdant, seemingly pristine. We passed by a few resorts and inns here and there, but the area looked mostly untouched by development, a fact that considerably added to its rustic charm.
A hill of undulating cogon captivated us – it was both a static and dynamic sight.

A small roadside store conjured up images of South American countryside. Ki and I fancied we were in the Bolivian Altiplano.

A row of motorcycles parked by a cliff, overlooking the rolling terrain, was like a scene straight out of the Latin American film Motorcycle Diaries.

A pair of flowers blooming by the road provided a shocking red accent on the shades of green around.

After an uncertain hour on the road, we finally drove into the old town of Tanay. As with most Spanish-style towns in the Philippines, at the town center stood an imposing stone church.


Seemingly unremarkable, the San Ildefonso Parish Church‘s facade belied its rich rococo retable. We found the interior of this centuries-old church colorful and charming – quite whimsical, actually – a stark contrast to its stone-cold exterior. The bas-relief Via Crucis panels on the walls of the church offered a curious twist. The scenes were updated to the 18th century, and they conjured up the Spanish era in the Philippines rather than the time of Christ in the Holy Land.


The church’s silence was broken only by the occasional pitter-patter of the prayerful who would come in for a quick rogation and a quicker exit.



By the side of the church, I heard sobbing sounds. I peeked outside and found a boy slumped by the door. Whatever he was praying for, he agonized for it.


The hillside town of Morong was our last stop; it was saving the best for last. The lovely St. Jerome Church came into view, perched on a hill. Originally built in 1615, the church had been renovated over the succeeding centuries but retained its antiquated allure. Unfortunately, the church’s main portal was locked.

The neo-baroque facade was eye candy enough: richly detailed with bas-relief and adorned with miniature statues and a mural. Said to have Mexican and Chinese influences in its design, it was a testament to our strategic location at the crossroads between these two maritime trading countries.


Finally, it was sundown when we made our way back to the city by the shore of Laguna de Bay. Road trips on a whim like this offered the most interesting discoveries. Pleasant surprises could be had in places that figured below everyone’s radar. Rizal Province was so near Metro Manila, yet mainly undiscovered as a drive-through getaway and a peek to our past.
It was Ki’s birthday; it was also Rizal Day, the death anniversary of our National Hero. It dawned on us that the road trip, although unplanned, was a fitting way to celebrate the life of Jose Rizal – by rediscovering our cultural heritage in the province named after him.

very refreshing…and educational.
very well laid out…
tis like travelling with you…
Thanks! 🙂 The fun in travelling is in learning about yourself and the world. I’m a teacher by profession, but I become an eager student on the road. 🙂
whoa! like experiencing Rizal province for the first time all over again! eat your heart out Bolivian altiplano! 🙂
Hahaha and we didn’t even know what the Bolivian altiplano really looked like! We just thought that poncho-clad people and a herd of llamas wouldn’t look out of place there.
AJ,
Very nice Rizal road trip! The San Ildefonso Church is actually 403 years old already.
Joel Aldor
Illuminati Travel & Tours Philippines
Thanks for the correction, Meister! I’ve always wanted to go on one of your Illuminati tours but stacks of papers I need to check would not allow me. But one of these days, the opportunity will certainly present itself.
The pic with a caption “praying lady” is so artistic and touching. Its good to read your blog, so informative and i am humbled by your style of writing.
I am touched by your comment, Inno. So encouraging, especially since I don’t earn from this. Every compliment feels like a hundred bucks. Thanks for making me richer…in spirit. 🙂
you know i m from tanay rizal too but i m here now in Canada i really like you photo shot that is really nice tanks to you i see again the church you are really good photographer next in batangas ibanan or burakay
Maraming salamat, Michael. I don’t think it’s possible to get a bad photo of Tanay Church. It’s a lovely church. I do hope I can go to those other places you mentioned. Anyway, drop in again, ok?
if you planning to go back to tanay try to visit daranak falls… what a sight!!!
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll make a mental note of that. 🙂
Unplanned trips are always exciting. This trip you took reminded me of what Lao Tzu said: A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.”
Nice! And who can argue against Lao Tzu anyway? 🙂
AJ, ma try din to kasama mga bagets! Ang dami mong posts ng churches at very informative yung architecture stuff dito. Makes me think that I should’ve listened more with my fine arts class in college.
paborito ko yung larawan ng bulaklak… ang ganda ng pagkakakuha pwedeng gamitin?
@Elal: You took fine arts but never took it seriously?! What a waste! 😀 I also regret not taking my History, Humanities, and PI 100 (Rizal Studies) – actually all my classes – seriously in college. They would’ve helped a lot in blogging now, hehe.
@Romelo: I guess so, just give credit where credit is due. With a link to this blog. 🙂
love your shoot in frontal facade… professional shoot… thanks for sharing
Wow…I thought these photos are taken from abroad. Really nice shots here. Our country is indeed beautiful.
You are a professional photographer, I wish I can capture like that but I only have a phase out digi cam hahaha. I love all your photos
Thanks Noel, Enzo, and Chris! I just love taking snapshots with my digicam. I’m no pro and have no plans of being one. But your appreciation is very much appreciated. 🙂
very informational, every photos depicts some in-depth meaning, i feel kinda sad with that “A Cry in the dark” photos but great shoots 🙂
Gee thanks, Blair! That sobbing boy…I really wanted to ask why he was crying, but a part of me also didn’t wanna pry. I figured it was just between him and God and it seemed like I was intruding into a very private moment. My shyness got the best of me in the end, but I regretted it. I might’ve done something to help…or at least I could’ve comforted him.
I love all of the photos here. And learning that you were using an ordinary cam.. you’re awesome! 😀
Wow, I’m overwhelmed by the photo love! Thanks much! 🙂 But just a fluke. I don’t always get it right. Chamba-chamba lang ako.
oh that’s a superb trip! one of my dream road trip is to travel to Laguna by Tanay 🙂 I never thought you can find old churches in the East. The structure of the Morong church is breath taking 😉
There was that dramatic parting photo..
yet every picture has its own charm..
I enjoy road trips too.. but mostly if accompanied by friends. 🙂
@Travel Junkie Mommy: Oh, there are beautiful baroque churches everywhere in the Philippines, it seems. In Laguna alone, there are more than a handful. Do explore this part of the country. Kaya yan in just one weekend. You can stay overnight in a quaint B&B.
@Simurgh: Charm – wow, that’s more than what I bargained for when I snap these shots! Damu guid nga salamat. 🙂
The church is really beautiful. Too bad i was not able to see the actual church when I was in Tanay Rizal. At first glance, I thought this was in malolos. =) Para kasi barasoain church
AJ, this is priceless! I love your photos on the Churches and people you see. Super love the prose in which you woven your stories and how your destination has become one that enriches you culturally. Sana we can travel together in the future too.
I am captivated by the old lady in the pews and the little boy infront of the church.
@Chin: Yet another reason to go back to Tanay then. Ako naman, I have Morong Church to go back to. I’m curious how it looks inside.
@Doc Wends: Your comment IS priceless! I sure hope somewhere down the road we can be on the road together. 🙂
Pictures are fantastic. It’s worth going to a road trip when you know there is a beautful church and other sceneries waiting for all of you. Road trip + Sound Trip = Very nice trip! Keep blogging!
Been Here!when I was assigned in Siniloan Laguna at uuwi sa Marikina dito daanan q, taz may road dito na puro fog sa morning as in kylangan ng ilaw at dahan dahan para iwas aksidente 🙂
@Jenny: Thanks for the shot in the arm!
@Morion: Dangerous beauty ang description mo. What a memorable experience.
OMG ang Ganda ng church!! And nice shots ha! And all those dramatic shots of the lola and kid.. Nicely captured! Galing!
I love the pulpit … its very nice … I wish I could see it with my own two eyes … and the churches … the architectures really very unique.
Thanks Violy and Kathy! Lots of striking photo possibilities in this church.
Beautiful photographs. This kind of post makes me wonder why I didn’t tour the whole Pinas when I had the chance. Now, I am much far away and I can only wish I could go home and see the whole Philippines before my feet could tell me that I cannot anymore.
Awww sadness, Julie Ann. But I’m sure you’d still have a chance to see some parts of Pinas. You can easily squeeze in a quickie tour of Rizal and Laguna when you come here for vacay. They’re not that far. And remember, it’s more fun in the Pinas. 🙂
This very helpful tips it was really helpful like this link https://www.thunderbird-asia.com/rizal_blogs/best-staycation-spots-of-rizal/. And I’m really excited to read more of your blogs 🙂