El Capitan Parroco

Boljoon, Cebu, the Philippines

March 5, 2011

Boljoon, Cebu Island, 1823.

Monsoon winds from the south had been agitating the waters around the Spanish settlement town of Boljoon. Atop a watchtower, a sentry spotted a fleet of pancos outlined against the horizon. He frantically hoisted a red flag on a bamboo pole as villagers, assigned sentinel duties for the week, cried “Moros! Moros!” They rang a massive bell at the baluarte and prepared the canons peeking out of the loopholes. At the toll of alarm, brawny menfolk mounted their armada of wooden sailboats, the balangayes.

Lindzey Romero, MHistory

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A Series of Fortunate Events

Boljoon, Cebu, the Philippines

March 5, 2011

On the Banks of Boljoon

Who needs plans when you can have surprises?

With no agenda for the afternoon in Cebu City, road trip buddy Ki and I decide to hop on a southbound Ceres bus. As is my wont, I get a shuteye as the bus cruises out of the city. I open my eyes momentarily, barely catching a glimpse of the famous Carcar rotunda. Hours later, I fully awaken to the enchanting blue of Bohol Strait glistening in the sunlight. The bus is now tracing the coastline of Cebu Island. But we can see the end of the sunny afternoon further south. A compact column of clouds blurs the horizon. It is dumping rain on Bohol, the island next door.

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Fontainebleau in Cebu

Cebu City, the Philippines

March 5, 2011

Other than my bedroom, I didn’t have a literal comfort zone – a feel-good place that I’d repeatedly go back to. My fellow transcendental traveler, Ki, knew such a place where he felt “in the zone.” He took to his solitary journeys there like a fish to water.

Richmond Butalid (Ki) and his favorite McDonald’s in Fuente Osmeña Circle

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Filipino Gothic

Manila, the Philippines

January 29, 2011

Gothic, Illuminati, noir-ish. No, these were not plot elements of the latest installment in the Da Vinci Code franchise.

One gloomy January day, I attended an Illuminati event at the only Neo-Gothic church in Manila, the Basilica Minore de San Sebastian. From the elevated train, the sight of the church’s twin spires piercing the sunless sky evoked an ominous Gothic atmosphere. Despite the whimsical aquamarine exterior, darkness enveloped my tentative steps as the basilica’s main portal creaked open akin to a film noir opening sequence.

San Sebastian Church

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