Upon this Rock

Corregidor Island, Cavite City, the Philippines

February 11, 2012

Looking into the Gun Barrel
Corregidor Island: Mom, Are you Looking for Bond?

The Rock

During the American occupation, Corregidor Island went by the name Fort Mills or, simply “the Rock,” a moniker that connotes more than a dash of testosterone. The sperm-shaped island seemingly swam at the mouth of Manila Bay between the Bataan Peninsula and Cavite, the province that held jurisdiction over it. Fortified by the country’s colonists, the rocky island lay at a strategic point that guarded one of the finest natural harbors in the world and the city of Manila, about 16 miles within the bay. Belligerent superpowers, the US and Japan, took turns in seizing control of the Rock through two battles that bookended WW2 in the Philippines.

Sun Cruises Ferry Docked @ Corregidor
Manila Bay
Sperm-Shaped Corregidor Island (Map @ Pacific War Museum, Corregidor)

The Ride

At 8:00AM, my mother and I boarded a Sun Cruises ferry at CCP Bay Terminal. In no more than an hour, we docked at the Rock. The day’s visitors were met by several tranvia buses, reminiscent of streetcars that plied through prewar Corregidor, when Filipinos were relegated to the back rows, out of sight from the Americans up front. Today, we occupied the entire bus. 

Alas, the tranvia was far from being elderly-friendly. Without inclined steps, my mother needed at least two people to get her on and off the vehicle. Considering the nine stops in this day tour, it was a taxing and a potentially precarious exercise. Provisions for the older set should be in order; after all, this island steeped in war history attracts veterans, their spouses, and people who have lived through WW2 – all senior citizens by now.

Bus Tranvia @ Corregidor
Armando, our Tour Guide, Mixes History with Humor

The Tunnel

One of our first stops was the Malinta Tunnel, now a venue for a light and sound show, a dramatic crash course in WW2 history that would inform the rest of the tour. As the tunnel’s metal door closed behind us, the tour group was plunged into the darkest years of the 20th century. Drones of tora tora planes, volleys of gunfire, and bomb explosions reverberated through the tunnel as it did during the war. Grainy newsreels and crackling radio sound bites imbued history with the urgency of news. Two thumbs up for film director Lamberto Avellana, the show’s creator, for this atmospheric account of WW2 events with Corregidor as the focal point.

The tunnel network served as ammunition storage and bunker, and later as wartime HQ of President Manuel L. Quezon and Gen. Douglas MacArthur. Interestingly, it was built by the Americans more than a decade before WW2. Was it a foreshadowing of a war to come? The prescient Americans had laid the groundwork, quite literally, in preparation for any eventuality of war, using prison labor and Baguio gold mining technology. The tunnel construction progressed slowly in the 1930s until the imminent world war gave it a shot in the arm.

TTT @ Malinta Tunnel, Corregidor (Photography by Mom)
Mom in Malinta Tunnel

The immaculately restored tunnel was once a deathtrap, the site of a mass suicide of Japanese soldiers, numbering in the thousands, trapped underground by approaching American forces on February 23, 1945. Where the Americans and Filipinos, emaciated but nonetheless alive, had surrendered three years before, the Japanese detonated bombs, in kamikaze fashion, and pulverized themselves as they had almost done to the Rock itself during the siege of Corregidor in 1942.

Mom with Guard in WW2 Philippine Commonwealth Army Uniform @ Malinta Tunnel
Diorama by National Artist Napoleon Abueva @ Malinta Tunnel, Corregidor

The Batteries

This was what we came here to see: vintage artillery in ruined fortifications called batteries, of which there are 23 on the island.

A phalanx of four rotating mortars lined a concrete pit in Battery Way. Gleaming with a fresh coat of camouflage green, the mortars were cocked erect. The gun barrels could be rotated 360 degrees to catapult 450kg shells 13 kilometers away at every direction. The impressive numbers were not in any way as potent as seeing these massive but silenced killing machines, like dinosaur fossils, tower over a human being.

Rotating Mortar @ Battery Way, Corregidor

The biggest gun on the island adorned Battery Hearn. After defeating the American and Filipino forces in the Battle of Bataan, the Japanese Imperial Army chose it as a war trophy; they posed under its long barrel with arms raised in victory for publicity photos. We chose it as the perfect backdrop for a group photo.

The Biggest Gun @ Battery Hearn, Corregidor

Battery Grubbs harbored disappearing guns behind its concrete parapets, where cannons descended out of enemy view after firing.  The battery was, nevertheless, heavily damaged by a round of Japanese shelling. Despite their spotty performance during the war, the weapons still display the military muscle, oiled and flexed, of the US.

Barrel of a Disappearing Gun @ Battery Grubbs, Corregidor

The Barracks

The complex of barracks at the highest point of the island, the Topside, was grand enough to merit the name Mile Long Barracks, although it was only a third of a mile. The manicured lawn and ballpark in front of the crumbling ruins gave it a sort of forlorn elegance. A prewar community of military personnel and their families lived here, the island’s administrative and living area, perhaps comparable to Camp John Hay in Baguio.

Mom opted to stay put in the tranvia. By this time, she had had enough of struggling up and down the bus.

Topside Barracks aka Mile Long Barracks @ Corregidor
Ruins @ Topside Barracks, Corregidor

The Cinema

Indeed, the Americans were here. A tell-tale sign was a vestige of Hollywood, Cine Corregidor, a shell of a cinema that used to premiere the latest movies half a year ahead of their release in Manila. It would leave to the imagination what other amenities, obliterated by war, the Americans had here, living a colonial lifestyle in their Pacific paradise. I peeked through the space created by a collapsed wall that was once the silver screen, a window to the outside world that had become a window through which I conjured up the world of yore.

Cine Corregidor

The Memorials

As they had spilled their sons’ blood, so they would share the memories of their lost heroes. Both the US and Japan, former nemeses, established memorials on the island to remember the lives lost and to reclaim peace and freedom, twin hopes they had inscribed on their respective memorial sculptures’ plinths.

The Eternal Flame of Freedom @ Corregidor
Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy @ Japanese War Memorial, Corregidor

A statue of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, stood at the Japanese War Memorial, looking down to hear the cries of agony of their fallen soldiers. The mercy they had denied giving in life redeemed them in death.

A steel sculpture called The Eternal Flame of Freedom rose over a promenading strip of the Pacific War Memorial, a white domed chapel built by the American government to honor both American and Filipino soldiers who fought together in WW2. A ray of sunlight – “freedom’s light” – streamed down at midday from an oculus, a puncture at the dome’s zenith, to the circular center altar, engraved with a poignant prayer.

Pacific War Memorial @ Corregidor
The Pacific War Memorial @ Corregidor
Oculus and Altar @ The Pacific War Memorial, Corregidor
Gen. MacArthur’s Bust and Beret @ The Pacific War Museum,Corregidor
View of the Tailside of Corregidor

The Lighthouse

The Spanish lighthouse was perhaps so named as a nod to the country’s first colonizer. The original lighthouse built in 1836 had not survived, but a replacement was erected at the same site. I scaled the winding staircase to the top from where the coastline of Bataan Peninsula was clearly visible. Half of Manila Bay separated the island from the peninsula, but the trajectory of cannon fire from the giant mortars I had just seen traversed this corridor of water.

Spanish Lighthouse @ Corregidor
Looking Out to Bataan from the Spanish Lighthouse @ Corregidor

The Bromance

The first American flag flown at the end of WW2, staked on the Rock where the Americans had established their presence in the country and the rest of Southeast Asia, was preserved at the Pacific War Museum. A bronze sculpture at the Filipino-American Friendship Park, Brothers in Arms, depicted the brotherhood of the two allies tellingly: an American soldier holding and supporting his wounded, helpless Filipino counterpart.

Upon this rock, the relationship dynamic that would define this long-lasting bromance between Juan dela Cruz and Uncle Sam was established, for better or for worse.

The Corregidor Flag
Brothers in Arms @ Fil-Am Friendship Park, Corregidor

The Cause

Dubbed as a “cruise for life,” the tour was organized by Victory Christian Fellowship for the benefit of the Real Life Foundation scholars.

Mom with Friends from Victory Christian Fellowship @ Battery Hearn, Corregidor
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10 thoughts on “Upon this Rock

  1. Hi AJ. I was in Corregidor myself last December. We had had the same guide who is just as humorous as he is serious about history. I told him that I saw him on the Hidden Cities series. I don’t mind going back to Corregidor after rading your entry.

    Tita Agnes’s hat looks familiar – it must be the one she bought in Bohol!

    1. Hi Joy! Didn’t know our guide was a celebrity! Small wonder though, given that personality and wit.

      Yup, that’s Mom’s tarsier hat making a cameo appearance here. 🙂

  2. i should go back there…. nagpaka amazing race kase kami nung nagpunta kame jan mga two years ago na…. and dapat nga manager na senior citizen friendly yung mga trams nila… maski naman bata mahirapan sumampa dun sa sasakyan…

  3. awwww…. you make me melow with this post… miss this place and the people of course… reminds me when I got crazy capturing the memories and pictures.

    1. Wow Mommy Swa, nice to see you here!!! 🙂 I thought it was Princess Raden Roro who went nuts taking photos. Hmmm so it was you. Glad you found time to visit the island.

  4. Quite comprehensive with lovely pictures. I hop over to your blog just to see the pictures and smile at your mom’s expressions. if someone happens to be sitting close by to me, I call out to them and squeal with delight – Look Look, this is AJ’s mom who has an adventurous spirit and fantastic attitude.

    Cheers for Ma Poliquit and bright pictures. The rest of the things in between – Bleh!

    Joy always,
    Susan

    1. Awww I shouldn’t have bothered with the text, haha! Yeah, mom is the star of my blog. And in this post, she’s a Bond Girl (see previous comment, hehe).

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