We had to beat the crack of dawn to catch tuna. Anyway Hemingway, my family was never into deep sea fishing. We only wanted to be a welcoming committee to tuna trawlers as they returned to port. Alas, none of us a morning person, we arrived at General Santos City Fish Port Complex at 7 AM, already past the thick of the action.
Death was in the air and in the water. Plumes of smoke were rising from several funeral pyres on the paved bank of Bagmati River, choked with litter but revered as a holy river nonetheless, that sliced through Pashupatinath, the Hindu holy of holies in Kathmandu. Curious onlookers had gathered on the opposite bank to witness and document what this temple complex was famous for: the public open-air cremation.